A
visit to ‘Haus Wachenfeld’ in the Bavarian Alps,
written
and illustrated by Ignatius Phayre
It
is over twelve years since Herr Hitler fixed on the site of his one and only
home. It had to be close to the Austrian border, barely ten miles from Mozart’s
own medieval Salzburg. At first no more than a hunter’s shack, „Haus Wachenfeld“
has grown until it is to-day quite a handsome Bavarian chalet, 2,000 feet up on
the Obersalzberg amid pinewoods and cherry orchards. Here, in the early days,
Hitler’s widowed sister, Frau Angela Raubal, kept house for him on a „peasant“
scale. Then, as his famous book Mein Kampf („My Struggle“) became a best-seller
of astonishing power (4,500,000 copies of it have been sold), Hitler began to
think of replacing that humble shack by a house and garden of suitable scope.
In this matter he has throughout been his own architect.
A closer view of the house, showing the
umbrella-shaded terrace.
There
is nothing pretentious about the Führer’s little estate. It is one that any
merchant of Munich or Nuremberg might possess in these lovely hills.
The
entrance hall is filled with a curious display of cactus plants in majolica
pots. Herr Hitler’s study is fitted as a modern office, and leading out of this
is a telephone exchange. From here it is possible for the Führer to invite
friends or Ministers to fly over to Berchtesgaden, landing on his own aerodrome
just below the chalet lawns.
This view shows the chalet's lovely setting. In the
foreground are Hitler (back to camera) with Field-Marshals Göring (left) and
von Blomberg (centre).
HITLER'S PINE-PANELLED STUDY.
It was here, on the right, that the recent momentous
interview between the Führer and Mr. Chamberlain took place.
The
site commands the fairest view of all Europe. This is to say much, I know. But
in these Bavarian Alps there is a softness of greenery, with snow-white
cascades and forest-clad pinnacles, like the Schönfeldapitae and Tuefelshörmer.
Hitler’s
home looks out upon his native Austria. Meals are often served on the terrace
on little tables shaded by big canvas umbrellas. From this viewpoint a chain of
drowsy lakes is seen far below, with ancient shrine-chapels hidden in ferny
folds of towering rocks. And since the Reichsführer settled here as „Squire of
Wachenfeld“ the whole region has been starred with motor speedways, even as far
as Oberammergau.
The
colour scheme throughout this bright, airy chalet is light jade green. In
outside rooms, like the sun-parlour, chairs and tables are of white, plaited
cane. Here Hitler will read the home and foreign papers which his own air
pilot, Hansel Baur, brings him every day from Berlin before lunch.
At
this altitude, the Bavarian sun is at its most genial. Even at Christmastime
when deep snows are out, Haus Wachenfeld basks in warmth like the Engadine’s.
The effect of light and air in the house is heightened by the rolling and
trilling of many Hartz mountain canaries in gilded cages which hang or stand in
most of the rooms.
The
curtains are of printed linen or fine damask in the softer shades. The Führer
is his own decorator, designer and furnisher, as well as architect. He is
constantly enlarging the place, building on new guest annexes, and arranging in
these his favourite antiques- chiefly German furniture of the eighteenth
century, for which agents in Munich are on the lookout.
It
is a mistake to guess that week-end guests are all, or even mainly, State
officials. Hitler delights in the society of brilliant foreigners, especially
painters, musicians and singers. As host, he is a droll raconteur; we all know
how surprised were Mr. Lloyd George and his party when they accepted an
invitation to Haus Wachenfeld.
The
guest bedrooms are hung with old engravings. But more interesting than any of
these to the visitor are the Führer’s own water-colour sketches. Time was when
a hungry Hitler was glad to raise a few marks by selling these little works;
none measures more than about eight inches square, and each is signed „A.
Hitler“ - unmistakably, if also illegibly!
The
gardens are laid out simply enough. Lawns at different levels are planted with
flowering shrubs as well as roses and other blooms in due season. The Führer, I
may add, has a passion about cut flowers in his home, as well as for music.
A CORNER OF THE SUN-PARLOUR EVER-LOOKING THE TERRACE.
Here Councils are held in rainy weather when it is not
possible to sit outside.
Every
morning at nine he goes out for a talk with the gardeners about their day’s
work. These men, like the chauffeur and air-pilot, are not so much servants as
loyal friends. A life-long vegetarian at table, Hitler’s kitchen plots are both
varied and heavy on produce. Even in his meatless diet, Hitler is something of
a gourmet - as Sir John Simon and Mr. Anthony Eden were surprised to note when
they dined with him at the Presidial Palace at Berlin. His
Bavarian
chef, Herr Kannenberg, contrives an imposing array of vegetarian dishes,
savoury and rich, pleasing to the eye as well as to the palate, and all
conforming to the dietic standards which Hitler exacts. But at Haus Wachenfeld
he keeps a generous table for guests of normal tastes. Here bons viceurs like Field-Marshals Göring
and von Blumberg and Joachim von Ribbentrop will forgather at dinner. Elaborate
dishes like ... and ... will then be served with fine wine and liquors of von
Ribbentrop’s expert choosing. Cigars and cigarettes are duly lighted at this
terrace feast - though Hitler himself never smokes, nor does he take alcohol in
any form.
HERR HITLER SHOWS HIS BUILDER THE PLANS WHICH HE
HIMSELF HAS PREPARED FOR YET ANOTHER GUEST-ANNEXE TO BE BUILD ON TO THE HOUSE.
All
visitors are shown their host’s model kennels, where he breeds magnificent
Alsatians. Some of his pedigree pets are allowed the run of the house,
especially on days when Herr Hitler gives a „Fun Fair“ to the local children.
On such a day, when State affairs are over, the Squire himself, attended by
some of his guests, will stroll through the woods into hamlets above and below.
There rustics sit at cottage doors, carving trinkets and toys in wood, ivory
and bone. It is then the little ones are invited to the house. Coffee, cakes,
fruits and sweets are laid out for them on trestle tables in the grassy
orchards. The Frauen Goebbels and Göring, in dainty Bavarian dress, arrange
dances and folk-songs while the bolder spirits are given joy-rides in Herr
Hitler’s private aeroplane.
Nor
must I forget to mention the archery-butts at the back of the chalet. It is
strange to watch the burly Field-Marshal Göring, as chief of the most
formidable air force in Europe, taking a turn with the bow and arrow at straw
targets of twenty-five yards range. There is as much to-do about those scarlet
bulls-eyes as though the fate of nations depended on a perfect score!
But
I have said enough to convey the idea of a sunny sub-alpine home, hundreds of
miles from Berlin’s uproar, and set amid an unsophisticated peasantry of
carvers and hunters. This is the only home in which Hitler can laugh and take
his ease - or even „conduct tours“ by means of the tripod telescope which he
himself operates on the terrace for his visitors. „This place is mine.“ He
says, simply. „I built it with money that I earned.“ Then he takes you into his
library where you note that quite half of the books are on history, painting,
architecture and music. When it is fine enough to dine in the open air, one
sees a piano made ready for the after-dinner concert. Local talent will provide
violin and cello for pieces by Mozart or Brahms. But at the piano itself, it is
always that English-speaking giant (he is 6ft. 4 ins.) - Dr. Ernest „Putzi“ Hanfstaengl
who presides as composer of all-German renown.
IN HIS HOURS OF EASE - THE FÜHRER IN THE GARDEN, WITH ONE OF HIS PEDIGREE
ALSATIANS BESIDE HIM.
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